The Salton Sea – Paradise Lost

Posted: March 27, 2011 in Info, Misc

Artwork on an abandoned trailer in Salton Sea Beach, on the Salton Sea in California.

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The full gallery of pictures can be found at TheDirtyLens.com under Salton Sea

In 1905 due to heavy rain and snowmelt on the Colorado river the Alamo Canal flooded over and then breached a dike, resulting in flooding of what was then mostly a dry lake bed in the Salton sink.  For over two years while repair attempts were made to stop the flow, the entire volume of the Colorado river flowed into the basin creating what is now known as the Salton Sea.

In the 1920′s the area became a draw for tourists looking to play on it’s shores and enjoy the cool water and the newly expanding wildlife.  By the 1950′s the area was well on it’s way to being developed as a major resort area, with several cities springing up along the shores. By 1958 Salton City had laid down a master plan and started to develop large areas to handle the expected growth – grading lots and paving streets as well as putting in place power and sewer lines for thousands of future home sites. The future looked bright for the entire area, a gorgeous water front playground that was drawing even some of the biggest names in Hollywood to play along it shores.

Dead Fish along the shore of the Salton Sea

Dead Fish along the shore of the Salton Sea

But it was all about to take a dark turn. Being a basin, the Salton Sea had no outlet.  Over the years water and agriculture runoff  and pesticides would flow into the basin and then evaporate, leaving behind salts and other chemical run offs behind in the lake.  Slowly the salt content of the water began to rise as well as the level of other pollutants. Soon the fresh water sea became a salt water sea. In the mid 70′s record rain fall combined with irrigation dumping flooded out all the shore side resorts and homes – many would never rebuild. By the 1980′s Fish and Game was advising limiting consumption of  tilapia fish due to increasing levels of selenium.  The 90′s were filled with large scale die offs of grebes, pelicans, tilapias and croakers. What was a waterfront paradise became an environmental disaster.

Never developed neighborhoods in Salton City

Never developed neighborhoods in Salton City

As a result, the area around the Salton Sea began to fall apart. Resorts failed as people no longer wanted to vacation near the stench of the rotting shores. The large planned neighborhoods of Salton City were never developed as home sales and prices plummeted, leaving only scattered houses throughout the area . Flooded homes and buildings on the shore were left to rot. Houses and trailers were abandoned and left to the elements. Slowly over time the dream fell apart. Tourism fell and along with it local jobs, and the population for the first time began a decline. Nobody wanted anything to do with the mess that the Salton Sea had become.

Today the area is at a cross roads.  Large scale plans are being made and executed in the hopes of stopping the deterioration of the sea, and beginning to reverse the damage. Preservation efforts are being made to protect both the once abundant wild life, and the environment created by the accidental sea.  The housing boom saw a brief  influx of new homes and small developments take place, taking advantage of the low property costs and drawing in  a new generation to the area for a bit.

Will this all be enough to save the Salton Sea? Only time will tell. For now the area is a mix of old and deteriorating remnants of the golden resort years and a splattering of new life here and there, all surrounded by the stench of rotting flesh and the billions of small fish bones that make up it’s shores. Maybe someday there will once again be flocks of happy vacationers playing in it’s waters and children playing along a clean shore with real sand.  Only time will tell..

Full Gallery of Photos

A beautiful sunset on Salton Sea in California.. But it's not a white sand beach in the foreground - it's billions of bones of dead fish and birds rotting along the entire length of the shore.

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-The Dirty Lens

Pano of Saline Valley and Salt Tram Station - from a hike I did a few years ago from the Saline Valley floor.  This is the first major transfer station on the way up the Inyo mountains alongside Daisy Canyon. The Saline lake can be seen in the distance, with only a bit of water.

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While going through my photo archives I came across some photos from a hike I did back in 2006, one of which was this pano shot I never processed of one of the salt tram transfer stations and the saline valley behind it. For years I’ve been going to Saline Valley and driving by the ruins of the old salt tram that used to carry salt from Saline Valley up and over the Inyo mountains and down to the Owens lake valley. From the Saline Valley floor you could see some of the old towers going up the mountain, and way up high you with some binoculars you could see the first of the transfer stations. Curiosity over the years got to me, and one day I set out to try and hike up to that distant station. After a bit we were able to locate the remains of the old burro supply trail for the tramway and followed it up it’s long and winding route up to the station. In more than one spot along some steep cliffs the trail had washed out, requiring a bit of inching along narrow rock ledges to get past with a good 100 foot drop below it – at this point my hiking companion had to turn back, but I managed to work myself across this area and continue on – this trail is not recommended at all for the casual hiker! After several hours and about a 2000 foot elevation gain I made up to the old transfer station. Long ago most of the valuable equipment had been removed but the main structure is still pretty much intact, and in its original unrestored condition. The remoteness of this station and it’s inaccessibility to any but the most determined hiker has kept most of the casual vandals away – it probably only gets at most 2-3 visitors a year. I spent an hour or so photographing the ruins before heading back down, including taking the above Panoramic shot from the trail as it heads back down.

The Saline Valley salt tram is a protected historical monument, and as such it’s illegal to take or damage any part of it. Some more info on it, as well as some other photos of mine can be found at the Owens Valley History website. There is also a group that has dedicated itself to documenting and recording the history of the salt tram located here.

-TheDirtyLens

The Super Moon

Posted: March 19, 2011 in Misc

Well, so much for getting a good shot of the super moon tonight – it’s mostly cloudy out here.  A super moon is when the full moon coincides with the closest approach of the moon to earth in its orbit. In this case, it’s the closest it’s been in 18 years, and is also aligned with the spring equinox – making it 14% larger, and 30% brighter than when it’s farthest in its orbit. Despite the weather I did luck out and catch a glimpse of it twice though, once right at moon rise for about 2 minutes before it went behind the clouds again and then a second time when it cleared the clouds for a short time about 20 minutes later.   I didn’t even think I was going to get these shots given the weather forecast but at around 5pm it was still partly clear so I thought I’d try and find a spot – and ended up at the Griffith Observatory figuring it would have one of the better vantage points.  Amazingly enough as it got closer to moonrise time (7:29PM) it cleared up a bit more, and was clear enough for the moon rise to be visible for a few minutes before it ducked behind the cloud cover again. Lots of distortion and not a lot of detail in the shot, but still pretty cool.  The second shot below was from when it cleared the cloud layer for a bit, before disappearing all the way for the rest of the night.. ah well.. Maybe next time, which is like 2016…

TheDirtyLens

Mt. Williamson

Posted: March 16, 2011 in Black and White Photos

Mount Williamson and boulder field, taken near Manzanar California. This was taken very near the same spot as a famous Ansel Adams photograph.

Mount Williamson and boulder field, taken near Manzanar California. This was taken very near the same spot as a famous Ansel Adams photograph.

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There is a famous Ansel Adams photograph showing some boulders and Mt. Williamson in the background.

For years I’ve heard other photographers talk about the location, and seen other photographs that show the same scene as others tried to recreate the same shot.. Well.. one weekend me and my friend Skip were heading back from a nice stormy night camping in Saline Valley… we got an early start after breaking camp that Sunday morning, and thanks to the previous nights storm had some fun heading out the north pass from Saline with a fresh foot of powder snow to drive through. Afterwords as were were heading down 395 back home I remembered the photo and that we would be driving right by the location since we went out the north pass instead of the usual south pass.  The day still being a bit early, we decided to try and find the spot!  All we had to go on was my remembering others saying it was behind the old Manzanar prison camp and that it was the road just before the camp coming from the north.. and as we found out, Skip actually had a copy of the picture on his phone by some weird chance..  So armed with vague instructions and a very low resolution copy of the picture, off we went in search of it.

In my enthusiasm to find it we turned off the highway a bit too soon and wandered around some of the back dirt roads for a bit before finding the road we were looking for. We followed it as it passed the old water pools for the Manzanar prison camp, which still had the names and dates of the detained American Japanese people who built them carved into the cement and stones. There are two large pools, with a simple system for diverting water to fill them and drain them from a local stream, and built with some elaborate stone works and some small statues.  When full of water  on a hot summer day the pools would have been cool and relaxing, with great views of the Sierra Nevada mountains.. now they are drained and abandoned out in the valley floor with nothing but dust and sand to fill them – you can only wonder about what it was like for the people interned there all those years, and what became of the names inscribed along its stone and cement edges.

Heading west from the pools we soon came to a small clearing next to the stream with a large boulder field to the south.. this was the area described by both Ansel and others and similar to photos I had seen. Try as we might though, we could not find the exact spot in the picture. I knew from reading about it that Ansel had taken the picture from the roof of his car so we figured it had to be next to a dirt road, but we could not locate it.. Having failed in our primary mission we instead  went about exploring the area for the fun of it to see what we could find.

First thing we found was that overhanging the stream near the clearing was an old run down outhouse.. yes, I said overhanging the stream. Seems when it was in usable condition in the past, the bottom just let out into the open stream. I guess that’s what passed for working plumbing back then.. and made me think twice about the water that would have been in the pools we passed before..

The boulder field itself was pretty large, and stretched out in all directions.  Climbing around on them takes some effort as most of them are 5 to 7 feet in size, and larger.. and they stretch on for a good distance, with only a few breaks. I have no idea how so many large boulders all ended up in the same area as once you are clear of the area it’s mostly open desert and sage brush with very few rocks.. and the field is still a few miles from the base of the mountains. All the time we were climbing around I was playing with different shots and angles, seeing what I could come up with.. not trying to get Ansel’s shot, but my own interpretation on the area.. It was now mid afternoon sun creating harsh lighting, and all the clouds from the storm the night before had cleared out leaving clear sky.. not always ideal for photos. But still I played around with different shots to see what I could come up with.

The final shot above I took from a depression down in the rocks with my Canon 24mm tilt-shift lens on a Canon 5d MkII, although no tilt was used. It is a blend of 3 exposures due to the harsh lighting and taken hand held as I did not want to lug my tripod around in the rocks, much less try and set it up in a boulder field.. I was worried enough carrying my camera around with me while jumping from rock to rock. F-stop was F13 to capture a good depth of field and have everything in focus, and I bumped up the ISO to 400 to enable a very fast shutter speed since I would be hand holding the camera. The three exposures were 1/25, 1/100, and 1/400 of a second. The sun was just out of the frame to the top, and it took some angling to make sure I didn’t get any lens flare. Once I had it all set up I then fired off a quick 3 shot bracketed burst.

The 3 shots were combined in Photoshop using NIK HDR  Efex Pro, and then converted to black and white using NIK Silver Efex Pro.  I cleaned up a few dust spots as well as adjusted some local contrast using dodging and burning in Photoshop. The picture ended up being one of the better ones I got from the trip and a surprise on how well it turned out given the conditions.

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Welcome!

Posted: March 15, 2011 in Info

Coming soon.. The Dirty Lens Blog!!

 

Blah blah blah text… 8-)